There is a very simple test you can do to see if the problem is the potentioneter or not without having to open the stick.

Originally posted by Tokfan:Maybe you'll find some interesting bits from this video (if timestamp doesn't work it's about 25m 10s in). Like i said, this is the third stick i've had the same problem with, so it seems more likely it is related to the PC/ports than the sticks. Works just fine now, in hindsight I should have glued the cables in place so they couldn't interfere ever again, but re-assembling it was such a pain I really don't want to. I did both, no idea if it would have been sufficient with just moving the cables but 'better safe than sorry' so I cut a flake. If you move the wires a bit to make sure they don't interfere with the potentiometer it could fix the issue.īut if that potentiometer is not straight it's because the top part is squeezing too hard, a knife and careful carving some. Maybe you'll find some interesting bits from this video (if timestamp doesn't work it's about 25m 10s in). What usually does fix it is unplugging and replugging in the stick several times until it stops. I have drift problems with it, but there again, i had drift problems with my HOTAS X and my Logitech, and i'm not sure its anything to do with the sticks at this point, because adding deadzones doesn't fix it. Originally posted by Agony_Aunt:Got a 1600M. but you won't be using the buttons on the base really. It's a good stick, with plenty of commands for your stick-hand. (plenty of tutorials on the web how to disassemble, cut and reassemble.) To prevent it to going haywire again simply cut abit so the plastic doesn't squeeze the sensor as much. It's easy enough to fix, but putting it together is a pain is the B - big time, the one who designed the trigger button needs a good slapping. Originally posted by Tokfan:Do keep in mind that the twist function of the 16000M will start to go off by itself after oh, I dunno mine took ~200 hours, but it's a common error, it's just a matter of time.

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